How to Pinch and Train Fig Trees | Shaping and Optimizing Sunlight Through New Growth Management
Updated: 2026-08-11
After the winter pruning establishes the tree form, figs produce successive new shoots from spring through summer. Allowing all shoots to grow unchecked results in crowded branches, reduced light penetration and air circulation, and potential effects on fruit set and disease incidence. "Bud thinning"—removing excess new shoots—and "training"—securing remaining branches in the desired direction—are continuation tasks that complete the tree shaping begun in winter pruning. This article explains the purpose, timing, and methods for bud thinning and training.

Budbreak Management — Thinning Unnecessary New Growth Early
When branches cut back in winter begin to grow in spring, multiple buds will sprout simultaneously near the cut surface and along the trunk. Leaving all shoots to develop causes branches to compete for nutrients, which become dispersed, and shoots growing inward or crossing one another reduce light penetration. Removing unwanted shoots while they are still short concentrates nutrients in the remaining branches and reduces pruning work later.
Timing and Method of Pinching Out Shoots
Timing Guidelines
- Late April to May, when new shoots have extended to approximately 5–10 cm, is the initial timing guideline.
- Perform the task in multiple stages over time through June, observing conditions between applications.
- Pruning early prevents conspicuous cut marks and reduces stress on the tree; waiting until growth becomes excessive results in more visible cuts and greater strain on the plant.
Bud Removal Procedure
- Remove buds that grow inward toward the trunk or branches, and prioritize removing buds that appear likely to cross over other branches.
- When multiple shoots emerge from the same location, remove all but the most vigorous one by pinching them off with the fingers.
- Remove unnecessary shoots from the side branches, while leaving shoots from the main framework branches untouched.
- If the buds are small, they can be removed by gently pinching them between the fingertips without excessive force.
Purposes and Methods of Training
Training is the process of securing branches you wish to extend along supports such as stakes, fences, or trellises. When branches are trained horizontally, sunlight reaches not only the tree's apex but also the entire length of the branches, and new shoots emerging from each node tend to develop more uniformly. In training systems that position branches horizontally—such as bench training or single-cordon training—training becomes the central operation in shaping the tree.
Tips and Precautions for Training
- While the branches are still soft in spring through early summer, loosely tie them with jute twine or flat horticultural tape and other materials that minimize damage to the branches.
- As branches grow and thicken gradually, loosen bindings before they cut in and retie as needed.
- Bend branches gradually in small increments as they grow rather than making sharp bends all at once; this prevents breakage.
- Branches that have been trained tend to produce vigorous new shoots from downward-facing buds, so adjustment through bud removal is recommended.
The intensity of bud rubbing and training varies depending on the variety.
Vigorous varieties such as Masui Dauphine produce rapid new growth, so increasing the frequency of bud removal and narrowing the branch structure early makes management easier. Brown Turkey branches relatively gently and maintains its form reliably even with minimal bud removal. For large-growing varieties like Black Mission that need to be kept compact in containers, using training to bend branches horizontally while suppressing height is effective. When the variety of a specimen is unknown, checking the vigor tendency in the variety guide or consulting about training methods on the discussion board is also recommended.
Common Mistakes and Precautions
- Delaying bud removal until branches have become woody results in larger cut surfaces and extended recovery time.
- Training ties that are too tight can cut into branches, causing them to break or become stunted at that point.
- Refrain from training all branches at once. Instead, work through the framework branches in sequence, then proceed to the remaining branches.
- Excessive pruning of buds that results in an extreme reduction in leaf count may reduce photosynthetic capacity and affect fruit development.
Bud removal and training are unglamorous tasks, but they are the process of refining the tree form determined in winter pruning to match actual growth. Early bud removal organizes branch count, and directing growth while shoots are still soft makes it easier to maintain a form with good light exposure and air circulation. When uncertain about timing or degree of work, share photos of the tree on the discussion board and refer to the practical examples of other growers.
Related varieties
Not going the way you hoped?
Ask other growers on the board. A photo gets you a faster answer.
This article was drafted with AI assistance and reviewed by the site operator. Variety details are for reference—please confirm identification through discussion on the board.
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